Winter Wardrobe Part Two.

As a follow up to my previous blog, here is what is in vogue this season according to the high street.

Starting with the suit, not a great deal has changed in terms of cut for a few years: The jackets still have a slim or tailored short fit, narrow lapels and flapped pockets that either straight or slanted. Vents show the most variety, yet the single vent (inexplicably I think) remains the most popular. Other recent popular features include contrasting cuff buttons and ticket pockets. It is unlikely, though not improbable, that the buttons on said cuffs are functioning and the ticket pockets may potentially be merely an ostentatious flap that actually doesn’t have a pocket. 

The trousers varied from being skinny, tailored fit and even the rare full cut. Most had flat fronts and plain bottoms but as turn ups are fashionable on casual chinos, the sartorial bottom half seems to have followed suit.

There was one example of evening wear, a shawl collared single breasted dinner jacket with a single vent. Peak lapels are becoming increasingly popular on business and lounge suits making the shawl collar one of Black Tie’s most exclusive styles.

For the most part, it was all two button single breasted suits and the occasional three pieces however there was one traditional 2 on 4 double breasted anomaly among the others. The buttoning point on the single breasted jackets is still rather high, slightly above the waist, on most jackets but those from more traditional retailers offered a lower position. In terms of colour, it’s the same advice for autumn/winter as it has been before; keep it dark. The most popular patterns this year are check ones, but stripes and solids will always hold well whatever the weather.

Regarding outerwear, wool mackintoshes and peacoats have popularity once again on the catwalk, though the Crombie style still holds a place. There is also a decent compromise that is an interesting fashion item: the wool blazer. The same length as a normal suit jacket yet the cloth of an outwear garment, whether single or double breasted, these are great alternatives to the often impractical winter coat.

One thing that seemed neglected at the fashion show were shirts, which in recent months seem to be offering more rakish styles. These include the rounded “club” style, the tab and it’s more gauche cousin, the pin and even the cutaway. All these collar styles made their sartorial debut in the 1920s and 30s, experienced a renaissance in the 60s and are now back once more.