A Gentleman's Guide to Tailoring. : Winter Wardrobe Part One.

As autumn and winter approach, a gentleman must prepare his wardrobe for the colder months.

Here in Britain we are experiencing, as we often do, a lacklustre summer and as a result, days that are warm yet paradoxically chilly. To find formal items in a gentleman’s wardrobe with the greatest versatility when the weather changes daily, look no further than the blazer. Those made of linen and cotton are ideal for the warmer days and when it’s chillier, try tweed or a heavier wool. The blazer should be, depending on the occasion and weather, combined with either chinos or trousers in a colour that complements the blazer. A standard colour for a blazer is blue, but the shade makes all the difference to how and when it should be worn. A richer hue of blue, particularly when combined with beige trousers, is an excellent choice for a sunnier day as the brighter colours are better suited to summer. A darker, even midnight navy harmonises with darker shades and in more subdued lighting. Two or Three buttons are equally common; it’s a matter of preference. Single vents are more common on Tweed and other warmer jackets because of their country origins, while the navy blazer can have single, double or no vents at all.

When the weather turns colder, an extra layer will be required and for the gentleman there are many options. Winning the category of most formal, the Chesterfield is surely the most prestigious of coats. Arguably a descendant of the Victorian frock coat, the Chesterfield is cut in either a double breasted style with peak lapels or single breasted with a fly front and notched lapels (right). Another feature is the velvet collar, which apparently is one that saves gentlemen money by meaning he only has to change the collar rather than the whole coat, should it become too dirty.

A similar formal coat is the Crombie. A coat that has military origins, usually three buttons with a fly front or not and, in recent years, has been cropped to the mid thigh as opposed to the Chesterfield’s below the knee. This was an item that was popular with the British subculture “The Mods” in the 1960s and its subsequent revivals in the ‘70s and ‘80s.

Both of these outerwear items look equally formidable in black, navy or charcoal. Light Grey shorter coats are a more stylish alternative, but look better on coats with a mid thigh length.

The peacoat is another versatile weapon in a Gentleman’s winter arsenal. It is a short, double breasted coat; similar in length to a regular traditional suit jacket, that has either 8 or 6 buttons. The buttons on more traditional coat are made of plastic with anchors printed on them, but plain buttons are more commonplace. Features of the peacoat can include epaulettes and strap cuff buttons if not ordinary cuff buttons, contrast collar meltons and peak lapels. Having Naval origins, it is traditionally found in navy blue (below right), but blacks and grey are popular fashionable alternate colours. Another element found on high street peacoats is an attached funnel neck zip fleece jacket (below left). This might be the result of retailers observing people wearing the two separate layers and then combining them.

These are the major winter staples in a Gentleman’s wardrobe; while other coats like the duffel and funnel exist they seem to lack the formality that these holy trinity of formal coats have.

In terms of tailoring, those in heavier wools are also better suited to this season, as are herringbone patterns and, as mentioned, darker colours are more complimentary in the winter season.

A blog will follow on the winter trends when after I have attended a show of Bristol Fashion week later this month.