Suitable Wedding Attire

One of the most auspicious occasions to wear tailored clothes is, naturally, a man’s wedding.

The bride and her wedding dress usually take centre stage here but there is no reason why the gentlemen’s attire cannot be given equal billing and there are many ways to do this.

Firstly, a gentleman and his lady must decide how formal their marriage mode will be; will it be top hats and tails, will it Black Tie or lounge suits?

Morning Dress is the most traditional and used to be a staple in every British wardrobe even if you weren’t the groom. At its most traditional is a black or grey cutaway coat; a suit jacket that has knee length tails and has a link closure, and peak lapels. The waistcoat a dove grey or a “buff” colour either double breasted with lapels or single breasted without. The Trousers are black and grey striped or checked, worn with a high rise and braces. The Shirt used to have a formal turndown  white collar that would have to be attached to the shirt by a stud and different body and tie would be silver, tied with a four in hand knot or a hand tied formal cravat. See (above) the Princes with double breasted pastel and buff wasitcoats, striped trousers, black cutaway and probably detachable collar shirts. 

The morning suit is different as it has the same cut as above but all pieces are matching in pattern and colour; usually light grey. Prince Charles is demonstrating this rather well here in a Glen plaid check possibly with the detachable collar shirt (below)

Shoes should be Black oxfords/Derbys: Plain round/square toed shoes. Brogues not suggested.

Additional accessories would include a top hat, black silk is the most formal but most opt for Light Grey felt with a black band, a pocket watch in the waistcoat, buttonhole (flower) Cravat pin and cufflinks.  You often get a ring at these events so leave your hands bare for these chaps!

If you wish to go follow the classic road, then Morning Dress is the best option. The major differences would be subtle changes of colour to differentiate the groom from his groomsmen. Usually done with the tie, the buttonhole or pocket square. Many weddings will have a colour theme which is often reflected in the bridesmaid dresses or waistcoats/ties. This is ultimately personal preference but the injection of colour into the tie rather than the waistcoat is less dazzling while still remaining interesting. Other changes to modernise such as the attached soft turndown collar, found on almost all shirts now, or a navy tailcoat should not detract from its elegance too much.

Across the pond, weddings take place after 18:00 and as result require Black Tie. I have previously posted about this dress code so I shall try to keep this brief.

Classic Black Tie is a black or midnight blue dinner jacket with silk facings on either peak lapels or a shawl collar. It should have one button, usually covered in silk and the matching trousers should have one silk stripe on the seam and be cut high enough for braces. If midnight blue, the facings are usually black. The waist covering should be either a matching low cut U shaped waistcoat with or without lapels or a black silk cummerbund. The cummerbund works better with a shawl collar and the waistcoat with a peak lapel jacket. The shirt should be a turndown collar with either a pleated or Marcella front closing with a mother of pearl buttons, black onyx/mother of pearl studs or a fly front. A black (or midnight blue) self-tied bow tie is to be worn.   Daniel Craig (left) is shown here in a midnight blue shawl collar dinner jacket, pleated front shirt and a pointed end bow tie. 

Shoes must be black patent leather or highly polished oxfords.  

Accessories will include: Cufflinks, shirt studs, optional pocket watch, discreet wristwatch, pocket square, wedding or signet ring. No hats are needed with Black Tie.

There are a variety of alternatives such as an off white DJ, velvet smoking jacket, opera pumps and silk scarves which you may indulge in but the above is a basic guide. Black Tie weddings are uncommon in the UK as ceremonies are performed before 17:00, though the bride usually changes for the evening so why not change yourself?

The key with Black Tie is to know the rules before you break them. If Black Tie isn’t something you’re used to wearing, keep it traditional, if you do then try only a small change to the standard rules; a different coloured pocket square or a bow tie in a different material. If you choose this option, learn and then insist upon the rules, here the injection of colour should be limited; adding high cut waistcoats or cummerbunds in bright colours will make you like someone’s “prom” date from the mid ‘80s. The point of formal dress codes is to create a sense of uniform, White Tie more so but any changes to Black Tie’s rigours must be subtle.

The modern standard for most weddings now is a lounge suit. This less formal option is the most practical as you will probably be able to wear this suit frequently compared with Black Tie or Morning dress. This can be a two or three piece in whatever cut, pattern, weight you see fit. Feel free to choose whether you have formal peak lapels, double breasted jackets, belts, braces, style of waistcoats etc. Choose a shirt from an array of colours and patterns vast enough to make Daisy Buchanan cry. The tie should complement your shirt and suit, bear this in mind if you have a particular colour scheme you are going for. 

Shoes can also be experimented with here too, providing they go with your suit. Black will be good for almost every colour suit but dark brown looks good with navy and lighter browns look nice with light grey.

Accessories can include: Wristwatch, cufflinks, tie bars, collar pins, pocket watches, lapel pins, pocket squares wedding or signet ring. Bracelets, necklaces, earrings are not becoming on a well-dressed gentleman and ought to be left at home or ideally back in the shop you considered buying them from.

Think carefully about how versatile you want the suit to be, would you like the only wear it to special occasions? In summer more than winter?  The safest choices are plain navy or mid grey as these will cover most occasion wear, job interviews and work attire. Lighter greys and blues, plain or patterned will be suited from spring to autumn. Brown is perfect for autumn and is still ok in most workplaces, while black is formal but can be a little draining so midnight blue is usually a softer option for a more formal colour.

If the weather is particularly bad for any of these occasions, a long tube umbrella is not only practical, but a great formal accessory. Outerwear should be as dressy as your outfit, but largely a navy or charcoal chesterfield with or without a velvet collar will complement everything. Shorter Crombie/other formal coats are equally acceptable.

Whichever option you go for the crucial detail is fit.

Wearing a cheaper suit that fits better will look infinitely better than an expensive one that doesn’t.

Many high street stores offer wedding services in which they hire out these garments, including the long Frock Coat styled Prince Edward Jacket (below). 

 Hire is certainly a more cost effective solution if you’re not one for dressing up. They usually offer them as made to measure, which is taking an existing garment and fitting it around you, opposed to bespoke which is building a garment to fit you. If you do not know correct sizing, this can often leave you with sleeves that are too long, waist that are too tight or shoulders that are too large. Learn the correct rules of fit or find someone who really knows the art of tailoring and you’ll be able to create an excellently fitting suit.

In regards to hiring as a whole, my advice would be to buy. It depends what you buy but lounge suits, dinner jackets and morning dress can all be used again; the frequency is up to you but it’s better to have that option.

I hope this has been reasonably informative but I now turn to what to wear as a wedding guest.

Wedding invitations should state the dress code, some may even state things not to wear too to avoid confusion or embarrassment. You should always follow suit (my puns are rarely unintended) to whatever is stated but avoid the colours of the wedding party once you know what they are. If they have stated Morning Dress, avoid the tie/waistcoat colours unless they have gone for grey; the wedding party’s button holes should stand out. If the dress code is Black Tie, then do not fear because it’s a dress code where you will all look similar guest/groomsmen alike. 

There is an adage that you should never out-dress your hosts, which can be perilous if they haven’t stated a dress code but  this can be avoided by asking whoever has invited you, bride or groom, what would be appropriate for their wedding. For example, if they are wearing blue lounge suits with blue ties and white shirts and all you have is a blue suit, ask if that’s ok to wear that and they might suggest a different tie. You could also suggest things you’ve considered wearing and see what their verdict is. Do not feel hurt if they decline your suggested choice; after all it is their day.  

If you happen to be someone who is very clothes conscious and your hosts are not the suit wearing types, then first consult with them on what they don’t mind you wearing. If they intend to marry in shirtsleeves and jeans but don’t care what anyone else wears then wear what you think is appropriate- a suit sans tie would do but Black Tie/Morning Dress is probably too much.

If you are the plus one of the hosts, kindly ask your other half to make that enquiry on your behalf. Under no circumstances go solely on the advice of friends, especially those who aren’t going! The key here is to follow the dress code but ask your hosts if unsure. 

Images:

http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplemental/Morning_Dress/2005_Charles_wedding_cbc_ca.jpg  

http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplemental/Morning_Dress/prince-charles-crop400px.jpg 

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0073/8132/files/12.jpg?2681

http://fromthismomentbridal.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Mid-Grey-Prince-Edward-Jacket.png

Society given a dressing down.

I have not contributed to this blog for some time now, so what better way to start than with a moan!

Something that has been bothering me for a while is the lack of dress codes; or at least those in existence being upheld properly.

The area that frustrates me the most is dress codes of office environments for almost any company. I fully understand that what you wear does not (or at least shouldn’t) bear any impact on the work you do. I offer the very same reason for why dress codes should be enforced or encouraged. If it doesn’t make a difference then you can still wear a shirt and tie correctly without it hampering your ability to work. The argument often given against this is comfort. If wearing a tie in its correct place hurts, your shirt collar is too small. If your cuffs are cutting the circulation to your hands, use the second button, wear double cuffs or buy a larger or even a short sleeved shirt. 

I know that rolled up sleeves look better than short sleeves but if you have strangely sweaty forearms or can’t handle a shirt at the wrist then wear short sleeves. I know that it looks cool and decidedly better than short sleeves but if you want to look cool then try and perhaps consider a change in employment. The point of a dress code is to look professional, not cool. Some see it as a sign that you are working hard. You shouldn’t need to show that you’re working hard; you should be able maintain a proper look and get on with your job. I’ve never seen a lady loosen the zip on her dress or unbutton a blouse to show that she’s working hard.

 It’s quite simple: Buy clothes that fit and wear them properly.

I know the jacket is unlikely to be worn at the desk, which makes sense as this can be restrictive. Any other covering is welcome such as a jumper, cardigan or waistcoat as this keeps you looking professional without creating discomfort.

This does not mean that the jacket should be ignored. If the dress code is suit and tie then you are expected to wear a suit jacket, shirt, tie and trousers. People seems to think it’s acceptable to wear a shirt (often without the top button fastened), tie, trousers and then any sort of outerwear item on top from parkas to leather jacket, hoodies to Harringtons. Formal coats are permissible as they look more professional but it should be a suit jacket.

I also know that some companies are more “traditional” than others; what I don’t understand is why that means that dress codes should go in more modern ones. Most offices regardless of what type of business will have codes of conduct so why would a dress code make any difference? In schools, military, medical and many other professions uniforms and dress codes exist for practical, traditional or aesthetic reasons. For offices and other work places, dress codes are much better because they offer the professional qualities or the industries above and they do allow leeway, it’s just that people don’t see it as such.

This is evident mostly in creative industries that do not have any dress codes, as if having this sort of boundary might stifle that creativity in some way. This is folly as suits, shirts and tie are so varied that there is so much room for your personality to flourish. This has arguably led to rise of the paradoxical uniform individuality that we see in causal wear. People think that dress codes inhibit their personal freedom and expression so they decide their casual wear will be explicitly different from the multitude. The problem is that other people have thought exactly the same and ending buying exactly the same check shirt with rolled up sleeves done up to the top button (the one time it’s actually worn correctly there is no tie!), the same eyeglasses with ordinary glass (what next a fashionable hearing aid?), the same skinny jeans worn below their backsides yet still flashing the ankle like Victorian prostitutes and the same white soled plimsoles with their hair and beards styled into casual perfection.

I’m not embittered or cynical; quite the opposite in fact! I am just quite classic (not old fashioned) with my taste in tailoring and casual wear. I did wear a tweed 3 piece into the office to subvert the rules but it backfired as no one gave a hoot.

Naturally I expect people to disagree with this line of thought, so I am happy to receive critiques and other opinions; I just wanted a bit of a moan.

A Wolf in Sheep's Clothing.

 It has been a while since my last entry so I thought I would resume with a blog dedicated to the decadent dress in Martin Scorsese’s telling of Jordan Belfort's exploits; The Wolf of Wall Street.

The suits in this story are a fine quality of wool and bespoke from the Straton Oakmont's  internal tailor however the majority of them are in a particular style that is not hugely flattering to any body type.

The style adorned by many is a double breasted 6 on 1 jacket with wide shoulders and an rather a baggy fit. To the uninitiated, a 6 on 1 style means that there are 6 buttons on the jacket but only one will fasten. The problem with this, as I have mentioned before, is that does not provide a man with a flattering silhouette as well tailored suit should do. The bagginess was en vogue in the 1980s as was large shoulders and wide lapels. This seems odd as it does nothing but make a man looks like he’s wearing a size too large. The suits worn by Jean Dujardin are the film’s most elegant; 6 on 4 double breasted and a few nice single breasted 3 piece suits. The patterns and colours are not surprising for a decadent stockbroker, pinstripes, chalk-stripes, bold checks and plain ones. They all appear in the usual staple navy and the various shades of grey. The worst part of the wardrobe is surely the ties. They are frequently garish patterns that belong on game show hosts but because it was fashionable during this era, they are plentiful.

On the whole, the film is an excellent showcase of suits, albeit ones with an unflattering style, shirts, ties braces and shoes that flaunt the ostentatious nature of the main characters with their often loud patterns and hues.  

    

Winter Wardrobe Part Two.

As a follow up to my previous blog, here is what is in vogue this season according to the high street.

Starting with the suit, not a great deal has changed in terms of cut for a few years: The jackets still have a slim or tailored short fit, narrow lapels and flapped pockets that either straight or slanted. Vents show the most variety, yet the single vent (inexplicably I think) remains the most popular. Other recent popular features include contrasting cuff buttons and ticket pockets. It is unlikely, though not improbable, that the buttons on said cuffs are functioning and the ticket pockets may potentially be merely an ostentatious flap that actually doesn’t have a pocket. 

The trousers varied from being skinny, tailored fit and even the rare full cut. Most had flat fronts and plain bottoms but as turn ups are fashionable on casual chinos, the sartorial bottom half seems to have followed suit.

There was one example of evening wear, a shawl collared single breasted dinner jacket with a single vent. Peak lapels are becoming increasingly popular on business and lounge suits making the shawl collar one of Black Tie’s most exclusive styles.

For the most part, it was all two button single breasted suits and the occasional three pieces however there was one traditional 2 on 4 double breasted anomaly among the others. The buttoning point on the single breasted jackets is still rather high, slightly above the waist, on most jackets but those from more traditional retailers offered a lower position. In terms of colour, it’s the same advice for autumn/winter as it has been before; keep it dark. The most popular patterns this year are check ones, but stripes and solids will always hold well whatever the weather.

Regarding outerwear, wool mackintoshes and peacoats have popularity once again on the catwalk, though the Crombie style still holds a place. There is also a decent compromise that is an interesting fashion item: the wool blazer. The same length as a normal suit jacket yet the cloth of an outwear garment, whether single or double breasted, these are great alternatives to the often impractical winter coat.

One thing that seemed neglected at the fashion show were shirts, which in recent months seem to be offering more rakish styles. These include the rounded “club” style, the tab and it’s more gauche cousin, the pin and even the cutaway. All these collar styles made their sartorial debut in the 1920s and 30s, experienced a renaissance in the 60s and are now back once more. 

Winter Wardrobe Part One.

As autumn and winter approach, a gentleman must prepare his wardrobe for the colder months.

Here in Britain we are experiencing, as we often do, a lacklustre summer and as a result, days that are warm yet paradoxically chilly. To find formal items in a gentleman’s wardrobe with the greatest versatility when the weather changes daily, look no further than the blazer. Those made of linen and cotton are ideal for the warmer days and when it’s chillier, try tweed or a heavier wool. The blazer should be, depending on the occasion and weather, combined with either chinos or trousers in a colour that complements the blazer. A standard colour for a blazer is blue, but the shade makes all the difference to how and when it should be worn. A richer hue of blue, particularly when combined with beige trousers, is an excellent choice for a sunnier day as the brighter colours are better suited to summer. A darker, even midnight navy harmonises with darker shades and in more subdued lighting. Two or Three buttons are equally common; it’s a matter of preference. Single vents are more common on Tweed and other warmer jackets because of their country origins, while the navy blazer can have single, double or no vents at all.  

When the weather turns colder, an extra layer will be required and for the gentleman there are many options. Winning the category of most formal, the Chesterfield is surely the most prestigious of coats. Arguably a descendant of the Victorian frock coat, the Chesterfield is cut in either a double breasted style with peak lapels or single breasted with a fly front and notched lapels (right).  Another feature is the velvet collar, which apparently is one that saves gentlemen money by meaning he only has to change the collar rather than the whole coat, should it become too dirty.

A similar formal coat is the Crombie. A coat that has military origins, usually three buttons with a fly front or not and, in recent years, has been cropped to the mid thigh as opposed to the Chesterfield’s below the knee. This was an item that was popular with the British subculture “The Mods” in the 1960s and its subsequent revivals in the ‘70s and ‘80s.

Both of these outerwear items look equally formidable in black, navy or charcoal. Light Grey shorter coats are a more stylish alternative, but look better on coats with a mid thigh length.

The peacoat is another versatile weapon in a Gentleman’s winter arsenal. It is a short, double breasted coat; similar in length to a regular traditional suit jacket, that has either 8 or 6 buttons. The buttons on more traditional coat are made of plastic with anchors printed on them, but plain buttons are more commonplace. Features of the peacoat can include epaulettes and strap cuff buttons if not ordinary cuff buttons, contrast collar meltons and peak lapels.  Having Naval origins, it is traditionally found in navy blue (below right), but blacks and grey are popular fashionable alternate colours. Another element found on high street peacoats is an attached funnel neck zip fleece jacket (below left). This might be the result of retailers observing people wearing the two separate layers and then combining them.    

  

These are the major winter staples in a Gentleman’s wardrobe; while other coats like the duffel and funnel exist they seem to lack the formality that these holy trinity of formal coats have.

In terms of tailoring, those in heavier wools are also better suited to this season, as are herringbone patterns and, as mentioned, darker colours are more complimentary in the winter season.

A blog will follow on the winter trends when after I have attended a show of Bristol Fashion week later this month.

Image Credits:

Grey Peacoat with attached fleece: http://www.burton.co.uk/en/bruk/product/clothing-281559/mens-jackets-coats-281568/grey-double-breasted-wool-peacoat-2069062?bi=21&ps=20

Traditional Navy Peacoat:

http://www.lyleandscott.com/pws/client/images/emails/011112jackets/011112jackets.html

Chesterfield Style Coat:

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/home.php?cat=377

Crombie Style Coat:

http://www.moss.co.uk/Black-Crombie-Style-Overcoat-By-Dehavilland-962677915

Fine and Dandy

Having finished Fitzgerald’s novel and Luhrman’s film adaptation, I’ll be writing about the eponymous hero of the “The Great Gatsby” and then the foray of dandyism in today’s age. To clarify to the uninitiated, dandyism refers to a character who dresses in a style that stands out from the norm quite extravagantly, originating from Beau Brummell of the 18^th century.

 Jay Gatsby’s style is one of rakish dandyism, looking at either the Robert Redford or Leonardo Di Caprio film we can physically see how dandified his suits are. The (in)famous pink suit from the novel transpires in Di Caprio’s version as a 3 piece chalk stripe suit (left). The jacket has peak lapels, turn back cuffs (an Edwardian feature), 3 buttons with a low placement and he wears it with a collar pin shirt, a tie with pink and burgundy stripes that follow the British direction and a burgundy pocket square. While the mentioned elements are examples of dandyism, the most striking feature is obviously the colour of the cloth. Pink is a versatile colour for shirts in any man’s wardrobe but for suits, it only serves as a dandified summer outfit. Robert Redford’s version is still dandified but has notch lapels, and a double breasted waistcoat with shawl lapels. It looks good on Gatsby because he is a man known, or at least gives the impression for it in his ambiguous character, for being extravagant. His shirts, he notes in the novel, are finest quality from English,probably Jermyn Street in London. 

The dinner suit he wears in the film is equally interesting, but perhaps is forgivable because of the era. Black Tie was still a relatively new dress code in the 1920s and this meant that many dinner suits at the time had certain artistic flairs as people began experimenting and merging elements of Formal and Semi Formal evening wear. Gatsby seems to be wearing a high buttoning (3 or 4) single breasted peak lapelled jacket in midnight blue with black silk facings. The waistcoat underneath is also rather highly cut and seems to be midnight blue with a fine pinstripe. A later dinner suit seems to show a matching plain midnight waistcoat with lapels. 

It was also interesting to note, although probably just an example of Luhrman splendor, the first Gatsby party that Nick Carraway, played rather well by Toby Maguire(above), attends having been invited by Mr Gatsby seems an eclectic mix of Black Tie, White Tie, Stroller and Sports formal wear. 

While many of the male characters in the 2013 film dress in a style that might seem dandyish to a modern audience (Carraway wears a shirt with a club collar, Tom Buchannan wears a double breasted waistcoat that covers almost all of his torso and three piece suits are commonplace in it) it should be noted that the 1920s were a decade when not only were suits worn in abundance, more stylish cuts were emerging as part of a post -war rejection of past stuffiness.

By contrast in this current decade, wearing suits has become a boring chore for many, only wearing one when they absolutely have to. Many workplaces offer a dress code that only stipulates a shirt and tie and some, particularly over the summer where people find wearing a shirt and tie too much, even suggest a cessation of dress codes all together. I appreciate that the warm weather makes wearing shirts and ties uncomfortable, but this problem is encouraged by ill fitting shirts that are made of less breathable materials. A suit jacket on top of this adds to the problem, but a lighter colour and material jacket still retains smartness without becoming as uncomfortable as dark colours.

Wearing a three piece suit, even if it is in conservative in cut, colour and pattern and mixed with a plain white shirt and muted tie, would look dandified to many today because it contrasts with a smart casual look adopted by the majority of others. Dandy styles, by old standards, still exist today however; fashion designers and high street suit retailers offer tailoring in brighter, bolder colours and patterns and cuts. Brooks Brothers have even gone to the extent that they are offering Gatsby-esque products as part of the S/S 2013 range. This peacock style of bright and bold tailoring is arguably to suggest that wearing a suit need not be boring. The idea of suit wearing being boring must come from the false interpretation that formality is dull. I’d hazard that it’s because looking clean cut and traditional is not as cool as the androgynous look of today’s fashion conscious who, like generations of youth before them, go to great lengths to style their hair thoroughly yet think dressing formally is an arduous task.

Formality has always had a relationship with dandification, as Nicholas Antongiovanni describes the difference as the former being “solemnity combined with obeisance to established modes of propriety” while the latter is “panache or strikingness combined with rarity”. Colour plays an important role in each; dark colours are more formal and bright colours on suits are more dandified. There is nothing boring in my eyes about formality even if it has connotations of fustiness, it’s still equally easy to look good in a conservative style just adding a pocket square in a flat fold to match the shirt or subtle cufflinks which contrasts to the elaborate puffs of silk handkerchiefs that a dandy might wear.

I suppose my overall point is that:  While I lament that suit wearing is not a common practice these days and therefore makes those who wear them look, at worst, square or, at best, dandified compared to their casual counterparts, I value the suit’s uniqueness in these circumstances and advise others to bring it back into the foray as something to wear in many circumstances, not just weddings and funerals.  

(Image Credits: 

http://uptowndandy.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/a-cultural-history-of-dandy-slatecom.html

 http://nymag.com/daily/intelligencer/2013/05/was-the-great-gatsby-broke.html

A Guide to Graduation Wear for Gentlemen.

 As Graduation  ceremonies approach for many, a gentleman ought to plan what he will wear on this momentous day in his life. The initial guide for mine personally is, ambiguously, “simple, uncluttered clothing” as there is not an official dress code. This is still, however, a formal occasion and here simple and uncluttered does not refer to jeans and a t shirt. In many graduations, gentlemen seem content wearing a pair of smart trousers, a shirt and a tie. This is indeed a simple, fuss-free look and practical considering how warm the day (if it is indeed summer time) ought to be. On the other hand, the graduation gown will reveal the shirt sleeves so here are a few alternatives which require a little more effort and a little more resilience. These are a two piece suit or a three piece suit. The positives are obviously that you will look better dressed than your shirt wearing counterpart because a jacket covers wear the shirt might have billowed or crinkled after sitting and standing and presents a more refined look. The three piece does this and more as the waistcoat will cover most of the shirt’s body. There is of course a compromise by wearing a three piece suits minus the jacket, creating a smarter look than just a shirt, but probably more comfortable than a full suit. If you are worried, take the jacket or waistcoat with you; see how it feels with the graduation gown on. Remove the jacket if need be or keep it on if it feels good.

The only way to ensure that any of the looks is smart is making sure everything fits well and looks good.

From the bottom up:

The Shoes: Make sure these are comfortable but as polished as you can get them. They do not need to be hard leather, but they do need to look as smart as you can get them.

The Trousers: Assuming you’re buying from a fashionable retailer, the trousers are likely to be slim fit and have a short rise (distance between the waistband and the crotch) so make sure they do not fit too tightly unless you want to people to think you have women’s leggings on. Try the size that would normally take and the next waist size up and see which is more comfortable. On most modern trousers, the waistband is just above the hips and, depending on if you’re wearing just a shirt or a suit, you should wear a belt with the former and braces with the latter. This will make each style look as clean as possible because a belt breaks up the line of a suit by separating it and wearing just braces over a shirt looks like you’re in an indie band or you have forgotten your jacket. The trousers should have should just touch the top of the shoes for the cleanest trouser line. Belts should match the shoes in colour and material. In terms of colour, lighter colours will compliment the weather but darker colours work better if you are not wearing the suit as the bold contrast of dark trousers and light shirt will appear smart.

Shirt: Most shirts only offer the collar size as a guide so if you have an average or slim build look for a tailored fit or slim fit shirt. You should be able to fit a finger or two comfortably in between the collar when it is buttoned and the shirt’s body should not billow nor should it gape when you sit down. Wearing a jacket will cover these two problems. Whether you go for single cuff or double cuff is up to you. White is always a good colour to go for, as is sky blue. The tie should compliment the colours of both the shirt and trousers. 

   

The Waistcoat: The waistcoat should cover the top of the trouser waistband and just peak out of a closed jacket. It should fit the body well without being tight or loose. Any tailor will say how hard it is to get this garment right but measure your chest and try on until you get the right size. Make sure it matches the trousers, and the jacket if your wearing one, and remember to leave the bottom button undone.  

The jacket: This will make or break the outfit. It has to fit if you want to look smarter than any of the above. The jacket should fit on the chest smoothly so it doesn’t pull at the waist, nor give too much room. There should be a little bit of shirt cuff visible seen, quarter of inch or so. It should lie flat on the body and the shoulders should not protrude from the natural shoulder as this will make the head look smaller, if they are too narrow the head will look bigger.  

It is your day, so make sure you feel comfortable and happy in whatever you wear.