One of the most auspicious occasions to wear tailored
clothes is, naturally, a man’s wedding.
The bride and her wedding dress usually take centre stage
here but there is no reason why the gentlemen’s attire cannot be given equal
billing and there are many ways to do this.
Firstly, a gentleman and his lady must decide how formal
their marriage mode will be; will it be top hats and tails, will it Black Tie
or lounge suits?
Morning Dress is the most traditional and used to be a
staple in every British wardrobe even if you weren’t the groom. At its most
traditional is a black or grey cutaway coat; a suit jacket that has knee length
tails and has a link closure, and peak lapels. The waistcoat a dove grey or a
“buff” colour either double breasted with lapels or single breasted without.
The Trousers are black and grey striped or checked, worn with a high rise and
braces. The Shirt used to have a formal turndown white collar that would have to be attached
to the shirt by a stud and different body and tie would be silver, tied with a four in hand knot
or a hand tied formal cravat. See (above) the Princes with double breasted pastel and buff wasitcoats, striped trousers, black cutaway and probably detachable collar shirts.
The morning suit is
different as it has the same cut as above but all pieces are matching in
pattern and colour; usually light grey. Prince Charles is demonstrating this rather well here in a Glen plaid check possibly with the detachable collar shirt (below)
Shoes should be Black oxfords/Derbys: Plain round/square
toed shoes. Brogues not suggested.
Additional accessories would include a top hat, black silk
is the most formal but most opt for Light Grey felt with a black band, a pocket
watch in the waistcoat, buttonhole (flower) Cravat pin and cufflinks. You often get a ring at these events so leave
your hands bare for these chaps!
If you wish to go follow the classic road, then Morning
Dress is the best option. The major differences would be subtle changes of
colour to differentiate the groom from his groomsmen. Usually done with the
tie, the buttonhole or pocket square. Many weddings will have a colour theme
which is often reflected in the bridesmaid dresses or waistcoats/ties. This is
ultimately personal preference but the injection of colour into the tie rather
than the waistcoat is less dazzling while still remaining interesting. Other
changes to modernise such as the attached soft turndown collar, found on almost
all shirts now, or a navy tailcoat should not detract from its elegance too
much.
Across the pond, weddings take place after 18:00 and as
result require Black Tie. I have previously posted about this dress code so I
shall try to keep this brief.
Classic Black Tie is a black or midnight blue dinner jacket
with silk facings on either peak lapels or a shawl collar. It should have one
button, usually covered in silk and the matching trousers should have one silk
stripe on the seam and be cut high enough for braces. If midnight blue, the
facings are usually black. The waist covering should be either a matching low
cut U shaped waistcoat with or without lapels or a black silk cummerbund. The
cummerbund works better with a shawl collar and the waistcoat with a peak lapel
jacket. The shirt should be a turndown collar with either a pleated or Marcella
front closing with a mother of pearl buttons, black onyx/mother of pearl studs
or a fly front. A black (or midnight blue) self-tied bow tie is to be worn. 
Daniel Craig (left) is shown here in a midnight blue shawl collar dinner jacket, pleated front shirt and a pointed end bow tie.
Daniel Craig (left) is shown here in a midnight blue shawl collar dinner jacket, pleated front shirt and a pointed end bow tie.
Shoes must be black patent leather or highly polished
oxfords.
Accessories will include: Cufflinks, shirt studs, optional
pocket watch, discreet wristwatch, pocket square, wedding or signet ring. No
hats are needed with Black Tie.
There are a variety of alternatives such as an off white DJ,
velvet smoking jacket, opera pumps and silk scarves which you may indulge in
but the above is a basic guide. Black Tie weddings are uncommon in the UK as
ceremonies are performed before 17:00, though the bride usually changes for the
evening so why not change yourself?
The key with Black Tie is to know the rules before you break
them. If Black Tie isn’t something you’re used to wearing, keep it traditional,
if you do then try only a small change to the standard rules; a different
coloured pocket square or a bow tie in a different material. If you choose this
option, learn and then insist upon the rules, here the injection of colour
should be limited; adding high cut waistcoats or cummerbunds in bright colours
will make you like someone’s “prom” date from the mid ‘80s. The point of formal
dress codes is to create a sense of uniform, White Tie more so but any changes
to Black Tie’s rigours must be subtle.
The modern standard for most weddings now is a lounge suit.
This less formal option is the most practical as you will probably be able to
wear this suit frequently compared with Black Tie or Morning dress. This can be
a two or three piece in whatever cut, pattern, weight you see fit. Feel free to
choose whether you have formal peak lapels, double breasted jackets, belts,
braces, style of waistcoats etc. Choose a shirt from an array of colours and
patterns vast enough to make Daisy Buchanan cry. The tie should complement your
shirt and suit, bear this in mind if you have a particular colour scheme you
are going for.
Shoes can also be experimented with here too, providing they go
with your suit. Black will be good for almost every colour suit but dark brown
looks good with navy and lighter browns look nice with light grey.
Accessories can include: Wristwatch, cufflinks, tie bars,
collar pins, pocket watches, lapel pins, pocket squares wedding or signet ring.
Bracelets, necklaces, earrings are not becoming on a well-dressed gentleman and
ought to be left at home or ideally back in the shop you considered buying them
from.
Think carefully about how versatile you want the suit to be,
would you like the only wear it to special occasions? In summer more than
winter? The safest choices are plain
navy or mid grey as these will cover most occasion wear, job interviews and
work attire. Lighter greys and blues, plain or patterned will be suited from
spring to autumn. Brown is perfect for autumn and is still ok in most
workplaces, while black is formal but can be a little draining so midnight blue
is usually a softer option for a more formal colour.
If the weather is particularly bad for any of these occasions, a long tube umbrella is
not only practical, but a great formal accessory. Outerwear should be as dressy
as your outfit, but largely a navy or charcoal chesterfield with or without a
velvet collar will complement everything. Shorter Crombie/other formal coats
are equally acceptable.
Whichever option you go for the crucial detail is fit.
Wearing a cheaper suit that fits better will look infinitely
better than an expensive one that doesn’t.
Many high street stores offer wedding services in which they
hire out these garments, including the long Frock Coat styled Prince Edward
Jacket (below). 
Hire is certainly a more cost effective solution if you’re not one for
dressing up. They usually offer them as made to measure, which is taking an
existing garment and fitting it around you, opposed to bespoke which is
building a garment to fit you. If you do not know correct sizing, this can
often leave you with sleeves that are too long, waist that are too tight or
shoulders that are too large. Learn the correct rules of fit or find someone
who really knows the art of tailoring and you’ll be able to create an
excellently fitting suit.
In regards to hiring as a whole, my advice would be to buy.
It depends what you buy but lounge suits, dinner jackets and morning dress can
all be used again; the frequency is up to you but it’s better to have that
option.
I hope this has been reasonably informative but I now turn
to what to wear as a wedding guest.
Wedding invitations should state the dress code, some may
even state things not to wear too to avoid confusion or embarrassment. You
should always follow suit (my puns are rarely unintended) to whatever is stated
but avoid the colours of the wedding party once you know what they are. If they
have stated Morning Dress, avoid the tie/waistcoat colours unless they have
gone for grey; the wedding party’s button holes should stand out. If the dress
code is Black Tie, then do not fear because it’s a dress code where you will
all look similar guest/groomsmen alike.
There
is an adage that you should never out-dress your hosts, which can be perilous
if they haven’t stated a dress code but this can be avoided by asking whoever has
invited you, bride or groom, what would be appropriate for their wedding. For
example, if they are wearing blue lounge suits with blue ties and white shirts
and all you have is a blue suit, ask if that’s ok to wear that and they might
suggest a different tie. You could also suggest things you’ve considered
wearing and see what their verdict is. Do not feel hurt if they decline your
suggested choice; after all it is their day.
If you happen to be someone who is very clothes conscious
and your hosts are not the suit wearing types, then first consult with them on
what they don’t mind you wearing. If they intend to marry in shirtsleeves and
jeans but don’t care what anyone else wears then wear what you think is appropriate-
a suit sans tie would do but Black Tie/Morning Dress is probably too much.
If you are the plus one of the hosts, kindly ask your other
half to make that enquiry on your behalf. Under no circumstances go solely on
the advice of friends, especially those who aren’t going! The key here is to
follow the dress code but ask your hosts if unsure.
Images:
http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplemental/Morning_Dress/2005_Charles_wedding_cbc_ca.jpg
http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplemental/Morning_Dress/prince-charles-crop400px.jpg
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0073/8132/files/12.jpg?2681
http://fromthismomentbridal.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Mid-Grey-Prince-Edward-Jacket.png
