Suitable Wedding Attire

One of the most auspicious occasions to wear tailored clothes is, naturally, a man’s wedding.

The bride and her wedding dress usually take centre stage here but there is no reason why the gentlemen’s attire cannot be given equal billing and there are many ways to do this.

Firstly, a gentleman and his lady must decide how formal their marriage mode will be; will it be top hats and tails, will it Black Tie or lounge suits?

Morning Dress is the most traditional and used to be a staple in every British wardrobe even if you weren’t the groom. At its most traditional is a black or grey cutaway coat; a suit jacket that has knee length tails and has a link closure, and peak lapels. The waistcoat a dove grey or a “buff” colour either double breasted with lapels or single breasted without. The Trousers are black and grey striped or checked, worn with a high rise and braces. The Shirt used to have a formal turndown  white collar that would have to be attached to the shirt by a stud and different body and tie would be silver, tied with a four in hand knot or a hand tied formal cravat. See (above) the Princes with double breasted pastel and buff wasitcoats, striped trousers, black cutaway and probably detachable collar shirts. 

The morning suit is different as it has the same cut as above but all pieces are matching in pattern and colour; usually light grey. Prince Charles is demonstrating this rather well here in a Glen plaid check possibly with the detachable collar shirt (below)

Shoes should be Black oxfords/Derbys: Plain round/square toed shoes. Brogues not suggested.

Additional accessories would include a top hat, black silk is the most formal but most opt for Light Grey felt with a black band, a pocket watch in the waistcoat, buttonhole (flower) Cravat pin and cufflinks.  You often get a ring at these events so leave your hands bare for these chaps!

If you wish to go follow the classic road, then Morning Dress is the best option. The major differences would be subtle changes of colour to differentiate the groom from his groomsmen. Usually done with the tie, the buttonhole or pocket square. Many weddings will have a colour theme which is often reflected in the bridesmaid dresses or waistcoats/ties. This is ultimately personal preference but the injection of colour into the tie rather than the waistcoat is less dazzling while still remaining interesting. Other changes to modernise such as the attached soft turndown collar, found on almost all shirts now, or a navy tailcoat should not detract from its elegance too much.

Across the pond, weddings take place after 18:00 and as result require Black Tie. I have previously posted about this dress code so I shall try to keep this brief.

Classic Black Tie is a black or midnight blue dinner jacket with silk facings on either peak lapels or a shawl collar. It should have one button, usually covered in silk and the matching trousers should have one silk stripe on the seam and be cut high enough for braces. If midnight blue, the facings are usually black. The waist covering should be either a matching low cut U shaped waistcoat with or without lapels or a black silk cummerbund. The cummerbund works better with a shawl collar and the waistcoat with a peak lapel jacket. The shirt should be a turndown collar with either a pleated or Marcella front closing with a mother of pearl buttons, black onyx/mother of pearl studs or a fly front. A black (or midnight blue) self-tied bow tie is to be worn.   Daniel Craig (left) is shown here in a midnight blue shawl collar dinner jacket, pleated front shirt and a pointed end bow tie. 

Shoes must be black patent leather or highly polished oxfords.  

Accessories will include: Cufflinks, shirt studs, optional pocket watch, discreet wristwatch, pocket square, wedding or signet ring. No hats are needed with Black Tie.

There are a variety of alternatives such as an off white DJ, velvet smoking jacket, opera pumps and silk scarves which you may indulge in but the above is a basic guide. Black Tie weddings are uncommon in the UK as ceremonies are performed before 17:00, though the bride usually changes for the evening so why not change yourself?

The key with Black Tie is to know the rules before you break them. If Black Tie isn’t something you’re used to wearing, keep it traditional, if you do then try only a small change to the standard rules; a different coloured pocket square or a bow tie in a different material. If you choose this option, learn and then insist upon the rules, here the injection of colour should be limited; adding high cut waistcoats or cummerbunds in bright colours will make you like someone’s “prom” date from the mid ‘80s. The point of formal dress codes is to create a sense of uniform, White Tie more so but any changes to Black Tie’s rigours must be subtle.

The modern standard for most weddings now is a lounge suit. This less formal option is the most practical as you will probably be able to wear this suit frequently compared with Black Tie or Morning dress. This can be a two or three piece in whatever cut, pattern, weight you see fit. Feel free to choose whether you have formal peak lapels, double breasted jackets, belts, braces, style of waistcoats etc. Choose a shirt from an array of colours and patterns vast enough to make Daisy Buchanan cry. The tie should complement your shirt and suit, bear this in mind if you have a particular colour scheme you are going for. 

Shoes can also be experimented with here too, providing they go with your suit. Black will be good for almost every colour suit but dark brown looks good with navy and lighter browns look nice with light grey.

Accessories can include: Wristwatch, cufflinks, tie bars, collar pins, pocket watches, lapel pins, pocket squares wedding or signet ring. Bracelets, necklaces, earrings are not becoming on a well-dressed gentleman and ought to be left at home or ideally back in the shop you considered buying them from.

Think carefully about how versatile you want the suit to be, would you like the only wear it to special occasions? In summer more than winter?  The safest choices are plain navy or mid grey as these will cover most occasion wear, job interviews and work attire. Lighter greys and blues, plain or patterned will be suited from spring to autumn. Brown is perfect for autumn and is still ok in most workplaces, while black is formal but can be a little draining so midnight blue is usually a softer option for a more formal colour.

If the weather is particularly bad for any of these occasions, a long tube umbrella is not only practical, but a great formal accessory. Outerwear should be as dressy as your outfit, but largely a navy or charcoal chesterfield with or without a velvet collar will complement everything. Shorter Crombie/other formal coats are equally acceptable.

Whichever option you go for the crucial detail is fit.

Wearing a cheaper suit that fits better will look infinitely better than an expensive one that doesn’t.

Many high street stores offer wedding services in which they hire out these garments, including the long Frock Coat styled Prince Edward Jacket (below). 

 Hire is certainly a more cost effective solution if you’re not one for dressing up. They usually offer them as made to measure, which is taking an existing garment and fitting it around you, opposed to bespoke which is building a garment to fit you. If you do not know correct sizing, this can often leave you with sleeves that are too long, waist that are too tight or shoulders that are too large. Learn the correct rules of fit or find someone who really knows the art of tailoring and you’ll be able to create an excellently fitting suit.

In regards to hiring as a whole, my advice would be to buy. It depends what you buy but lounge suits, dinner jackets and morning dress can all be used again; the frequency is up to you but it’s better to have that option.

I hope this has been reasonably informative but I now turn to what to wear as a wedding guest.

Wedding invitations should state the dress code, some may even state things not to wear too to avoid confusion or embarrassment. You should always follow suit (my puns are rarely unintended) to whatever is stated but avoid the colours of the wedding party once you know what they are. If they have stated Morning Dress, avoid the tie/waistcoat colours unless they have gone for grey; the wedding party’s button holes should stand out. If the dress code is Black Tie, then do not fear because it’s a dress code where you will all look similar guest/groomsmen alike. 

There is an adage that you should never out-dress your hosts, which can be perilous if they haven’t stated a dress code but  this can be avoided by asking whoever has invited you, bride or groom, what would be appropriate for their wedding. For example, if they are wearing blue lounge suits with blue ties and white shirts and all you have is a blue suit, ask if that’s ok to wear that and they might suggest a different tie. You could also suggest things you’ve considered wearing and see what their verdict is. Do not feel hurt if they decline your suggested choice; after all it is their day.  

If you happen to be someone who is very clothes conscious and your hosts are not the suit wearing types, then first consult with them on what they don’t mind you wearing. If they intend to marry in shirtsleeves and jeans but don’t care what anyone else wears then wear what you think is appropriate- a suit sans tie would do but Black Tie/Morning Dress is probably too much.

If you are the plus one of the hosts, kindly ask your other half to make that enquiry on your behalf. Under no circumstances go solely on the advice of friends, especially those who aren’t going! The key here is to follow the dress code but ask your hosts if unsure. 

Images:

http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplemental/Morning_Dress/2005_Charles_wedding_cbc_ca.jpg  

http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplemental/Morning_Dress/prince-charles-crop400px.jpg 

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0073/8132/files/12.jpg?2681

http://fromthismomentbridal.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Mid-Grey-Prince-Edward-Jacket.png

Society given a dressing down.

I have not contributed to this blog for some time now, so what better way to start than with a moan!

Something that has been bothering me for a while is the lack of dress codes; or at least those in existence being upheld properly.

The area that frustrates me the most is dress codes of office environments for almost any company. I fully understand that what you wear does not (or at least shouldn’t) bear any impact on the work you do. I offer the very same reason for why dress codes should be enforced or encouraged. If it doesn’t make a difference then you can still wear a shirt and tie correctly without it hampering your ability to work. The argument often given against this is comfort. If wearing a tie in its correct place hurts, your shirt collar is too small. If your cuffs are cutting the circulation to your hands, use the second button, wear double cuffs or buy a larger or even a short sleeved shirt. 

I know that rolled up sleeves look better than short sleeves but if you have strangely sweaty forearms or can’t handle a shirt at the wrist then wear short sleeves. I know that it looks cool and decidedly better than short sleeves but if you want to look cool then try and perhaps consider a change in employment. The point of a dress code is to look professional, not cool. Some see it as a sign that you are working hard. You shouldn’t need to show that you’re working hard; you should be able maintain a proper look and get on with your job. I’ve never seen a lady loosen the zip on her dress or unbutton a blouse to show that she’s working hard.

 It’s quite simple: Buy clothes that fit and wear them properly.

I know the jacket is unlikely to be worn at the desk, which makes sense as this can be restrictive. Any other covering is welcome such as a jumper, cardigan or waistcoat as this keeps you looking professional without creating discomfort.

This does not mean that the jacket should be ignored. If the dress code is suit and tie then you are expected to wear a suit jacket, shirt, tie and trousers. People seems to think it’s acceptable to wear a shirt (often without the top button fastened), tie, trousers and then any sort of outerwear item on top from parkas to leather jacket, hoodies to Harringtons. Formal coats are permissible as they look more professional but it should be a suit jacket.

I also know that some companies are more “traditional” than others; what I don’t understand is why that means that dress codes should go in more modern ones. Most offices regardless of what type of business will have codes of conduct so why would a dress code make any difference? In schools, military, medical and many other professions uniforms and dress codes exist for practical, traditional or aesthetic reasons. For offices and other work places, dress codes are much better because they offer the professional qualities or the industries above and they do allow leeway, it’s just that people don’t see it as such.

This is evident mostly in creative industries that do not have any dress codes, as if having this sort of boundary might stifle that creativity in some way. This is folly as suits, shirts and tie are so varied that there is so much room for your personality to flourish. This has arguably led to rise of the paradoxical uniform individuality that we see in causal wear. People think that dress codes inhibit their personal freedom and expression so they decide their casual wear will be explicitly different from the multitude. The problem is that other people have thought exactly the same and ending buying exactly the same check shirt with rolled up sleeves done up to the top button (the one time it’s actually worn correctly there is no tie!), the same eyeglasses with ordinary glass (what next a fashionable hearing aid?), the same skinny jeans worn below their backsides yet still flashing the ankle like Victorian prostitutes and the same white soled plimsoles with their hair and beards styled into casual perfection.

I’m not embittered or cynical; quite the opposite in fact! I am just quite classic (not old fashioned) with my taste in tailoring and casual wear. I did wear a tweed 3 piece into the office to subvert the rules but it backfired as no one gave a hoot.

Naturally I expect people to disagree with this line of thought, so I am happy to receive critiques and other opinions; I just wanted a bit of a moan.