During
a friend's recent birthday celebrations, involving a suited dress code, poker
and Casino Royale, it was suggested that I write an
article about how to dress like James Bond on a budget. The brilliant David Zaritsky has several articles and pod casts on his
website http://thebondexperience.com/
about this subject, relating to specific outfits that James Bond wears as does the fan-site
www.ajb007.com. I will offer broad, generic advice in terms of
cut, style and aesthetic followed by a list of budget places
for the main components of the formal Bond look.
Suits:
The key Bond look
is obviously a suit but to really obtain that James Bond feel there are a few
things to bear in mind. Firstly, make sure it fits. The jacket sleeves should
always show a little of shirt cuff and you should be able to cup the base of
the jacket when your hands are by your side. It should lie flat against your
chest, and the shoulders should never be too wide. Bond’s suit are always well
fitted so its worth trying a size down as most "off the peg suits" are quite big.
Trousers should
fit on the natural waist, but fashion has dictated that most off the peg suit trousers are
worn at a similar position to jeans (on the hip) so make sure they fit comfortably. Have the
length so that it touches the top of the shoes when standing. While most suits
that are available on the high street have belt loops on the trousers, avoid wearing
belts as this breaks up the clean line of the suit. (Bond did wear belts yes, but he
had a master tailor in Brioni at the time)
Waistcoats are
occasionally worn by Bond so make sure they cover the waistband of the trousers
and fit comfortably, not loosely. Any number of buttons is fine as long as you
leave the bottom one undone.
Secondly, minimalism and subtlety are always “Bondian”
elements. Always wear suits that look good, but are not ostentatious; no loud
linings, contrast stitching, satin tips or piping and this goes for ties and
cufflinks too. The most classic Bond
suit style would be a 2 button, single breasted suit, in a solid/subtle
patterned navy, light grey or charcoal. These styles can be found off the peg
anywhere between £40 and £200. Wool is ideal fabric but it is more expensive so
buy the best with what you can afford. It is always better to have a suit that
fits well but looks inexpensive than an expensive suit that fits awfully.
In terms of shirts,
again buy the best of what you can, but in general look for 100% cotton, plain
light blues and whites. Recently Daniel Craig wore tab collar shirts but I
would advise against these if you are financially constrained; stick to a
normal collar that is neither too wide, nor too pointed. Double cuffs are preferred
for modern budget Bond’s look as the original turn back cuff shirt are considerably
expensive as they are from Turnbull and Asser. Where possible, look for slim or
fitted shirts if you have a slim to average build as most shirts have tight
collars but are made for larger men. T M Lewin are one of the best for finding
shirts in different fits and collar shapes, look for their sales and multi buy
deals for the best price. Most high street shops and department stores offer a
decent range of material and fits too such as Marks and Spencer, John Lewis and
Debenhams.
For ties, as with
everything else, go conservative colours/ subtle patterns that harmonise with
the rest of the ensemble. Cufflinks should be silver rather than gold coloured
metal and have them as plain as possible. These can be bought from most places
at reasonable prices. Go for black plain
toe shoes, either rounded oxfords or square toe and keep them well maintained
with polish. A good pair of shoes might cost that little more, but if they are
treated well they will last. The final element of the Bond look is a square folded
plain handkerchief that matches the shirt. Cotton ones can be bought for £3 and
still look good.
Stay tuned for information regarding the most iconic of Bond's formal wear; the dinner suit.
A brief list of places
to go for the above (UK
- Marks and Spencers: Suits from £59, shirts, ties and cufflinks from £10.
- John Lewis: Shirts from £25
- TM Lewin: Shirts 5 for £100
- Next: Suits from £79.*
- Asda George: Suits from £45.*
- Charles Clinkard: Shoes from £50
* All have a range
of inexpensive shirts, ties and shoes.
Other information regarding James Bond's looks can be found from the insightful work of Matt Spaiser at the Suits of James Bond: http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/
